NO! Our normal applications do not have glyphosates or other carcinogens. 

Our fertilizers contain NO chemical substitutes, carcinogens, or harmful coatings like heavy sulfur or so called nitrogen inhibitors/enhancers. Our fertilizers are safe once applied to your lawn and your lawn can be fully used after the application. Most applications include a liquid weed control as well though (please see below for special restrictions). Your health, our health, and the environmental impact we have is extraordinarily important to us and is the biggest consideration when ordering and applying fertilizers and pesticides.

Like our fertilizers, our weed and pest controls are non-carcinogenic and have been shown to cause no long term exposure effects when and where applied properly. Our weed and pest controls are non-trackable and highly soil bondable. This means that they cannot be tracked away from the treated areas once dry. You will never have to worry about them going into your home or getting on you, your children, or your pets just from playing in the lawn or coming in and out of the house.

All commercially sold and applied fertilizers in Michigan (with the exception of organic fertilizers) contain no phosphorous and must not be applied within 10’ of any waterways. Every type of pest control has very specific individual rules on where and when they can be applied. Our technicians are highly trained and required to read, know, and follow state and federal laws, and if an application is even questionable, we will not perform it.

For most liquid applications like weed or mosquito control, 2 hours or until dry is sufficient time according to manufacturers and government agencies. We leave detailed information regarding this with each individual application on your door after applications. As a Father, applicator, and pet owner, my advice is to always err on the side of caution. My personal recommendation is to keep small children and pets from playing in the lawn or treated areas the day of the application. To walk, run, or in the case of pets needing to use the bathroom, please be sure the application is dry.

Once per week is more than sufficient. In fact, cutting more often than that causes severe stress to the grass and can cause harm. Grass should also not be cut if it is not receiving water or has gone dormant due to heat/drought stress. 

Start by raising the blades to the highest setting. Mow a short path and measure from the bottom to top of grass blades and then adjust downward if needed.  Most grass types in Michigan require at least a 3″ cut height and look, feel, and are the healthiest when cut at 3.5″. 

This depends on the size of the lawn and how rough the terrain is. For small-medium lawns a push mower or small riding mower, 1-2 times/year is usually enough. Larger lawns (acreage) 2-4 times per year may be necessary. The best way to tell if your blades need sharpening is to look at the grass after it has been cut. If the tips are ripped, the grass is lying flat, or there are wavy areas left, this is a very good indication that the blades need sharpening or to be repaired.

.How often your grass needs to be watered depends on several factors so there is no one-size fits all answer. Watering amount needs to be varied depending on how hot/dry it is, how well your soil holds water, what type of grass you have, how much shade there is in the lawn, and if there are other factors that have caused stress or damage like insects and diseases. Every lawn is different which is why we fully inspect your lawn when you call us for an estimate. Advice and recommendations are left with each application throughout the year.

All heavy watering can be done anytime from the evening through mid-morning. During extremely high heat conditions and especially for overly sandy, rocky, or heavy clay based soils, watering for no longer than 5 minutes during the day will significantly decrease insect, disease, and drought damage.

NO. Recent scientific studies have shown no correlation between watering times and fungal/disease activity. Fungal and disease activity is directly affected by watering too much, weather patterns like humidity and temperature, as well as damage from improper mowing and insects.

Bagging clippings is almost always bad for the lawn, not to mention, time consuming and extremely bad for the environment. Most of the nutrients found in your lawn are gathered at the tips of grass so that it grows strong and healthy. Removing the clippings literally strips the grass and even the soil of important micro-nutrients over time causing massive damage and health issues.

Mulching mowers are NOT better than mowing with a side chute. Clumped clippings left behind by most mulching mowers take far longer to disintegrate and often cause dead/damaged spots if not raked out. Additionally, mulching mowers usually cannot maintain the blade speed required to cut cleanly/evenly thus causing ripped tips which dries out the grass quicker and can cause significant disease and insect activity.

By far, normal side-chute mowers with regularly sharpened blades are better than mulching mowers as they are able to cut cleaner, more evenly, and spread the clippings out better for quicker disintegration and re-introduction of nutrients to the soil and grass plants.

Most sodded lawns in Michigan require regular applications of fertilizer applied from spring through fall as much of our soil does not naturally contain enough macro or micro-nutrients to fully support it.

However, there are many lawns that do have great soil conditions and therefor require fewer application. Every lawn is different which is why we fully inspect your lawn when you call us for an estimate and then throughout the year as applications are made.

Mowing will NOT affect granular applications even if bagged. Granules are as heavy as similarly sized rocks and sink immediately to the ground even when the grass is wet. That said, liquid applications like weed control and other pesticides need to be dry before cutting so that they time to fully activate.  Because of this, waiting at least 2-4 hours before cutting is recommended.

Granular or dry applications can be watered immediately following the application. Liquid applications like weed control and other pesticides need to dry before heavy watering so that they time to fully activate. Watering the following day is best.

Dry light to moderate leaf cover will NOT affect fertilizer applications nor will leaf cleanup even when done right after. Granules bounce off and around leafs just like throwing marbles at a plate will. Granules are as heavy as similarly sized rocks and sink immediately to the ground. Our applicators are extraordinarily well trained and will not perform an application if it’s even slightly questionable.

NO. Our fertilizer, weed control, and pest controls are formulated to that they do not require watering to avoid burning. In fact, fertilizing a drought stressed lawn is just as important as a well watered lawn as the stressed turf grasses will need much more nutrition once it does receive water to recover from high heat/drought. That said, not watering when temperatures are high and especially if mowing during these conditions can and often does burn lawns.

This depends on several factors including condition of the lawn, soil type, overall health, thatch layer and thatch development, and whether seeding is necessary. For clay based lawns, aerations are generally recommended annually. Two aerations annually may be necessary for extremely compact soil, lawns with a history of disease activity, lawns mowed by heavy commercial mowers, floods frequently or retains a high water level, and lawns with an extreme thatch problem.

Sand based lawns should only be aerated if the soil is compacted by heavy mowers, have a history of disease activity, or require seeding to repair damage.

Some lawns do not require aerations very often. Every lawn is different which is why we fully inspect your lawn when you call us for an estimate and with each application performed throughout the year.

No, perennial grasses (grasses that do not die off annually) are not controllable with weed controls. Quack grass, bent grass, creeping fescues, tall fescues etc are true grass types. The only way to rid a lawn of these is to kill off and replace them.

Yes. Our crabgrass and weed control programs are fully guaranteed. If you are having weed problems after 10 days of treatment please call us and we will reapply if the weeds are not dead/dying. We preventatively treat for crabgrass in spring and treat whenever we see crabgrass throughout the year. For customers who set up service too late to receive the preventive, we do offer post emergent control.

Our grub preventive is fully guaranteed to protect your lawn against grub damage year to year. If grubs are found after the preventive is applied during the season, we will re-treat and repair any damage they caused.

Please see our service statements for pest and mosquito controls for guarantees specific to these services.

The best time to seed is from the beginning of September through early-mid October. Seeding during the summer is almost never recommended. Seeding in spring, if needed, should be done as soon as snow melts so that pre-emergents cannot affect it. If needed, spot seeding can be done any time the weather is not too hot/dry and if topsoil is used to cover the pre-emergent and provide a proper seed bed.

Most lawns in Michigan consist of mostly Kentucky blue grasses, and rye’s. Some have inordinate amounts of other (usually unwanted) grasses like bent, red fescue, fine, and tall fescues. Because of this, it is best to ask us once we have analyzed the lawn so we can give you the best blend specifically for your lawn. We stock, sell, and deliver seed blends and can match your lawn with the right seed.

Yes. Even though the lawn may be dormant or in the process of doing so, for most lawns fertilizing is still extremely important. In fact, fertilizing a drought stressed lawn is just as important as the stressed turf grasses will need much more nutrition once it is watered to recover from high heat/drought.  Proper fertilization double or even triple the quickness of recovery.

Unlike our competitors, we do NOT rely on a calendar date. Our applications begin in spring usually 1 week after the snow melts and when no major snow fall is expected again and average temperatures are expected to be above freezing. However, if night-time temperatures are below freezing and expected to remain so for some time, we wait until the forecast changes. In fall, we wrap up early to late November with the late fall fertilizer application.

The normal growing season in Michigan lasts from March through early December. During some years, snow comes early (late November). Late season applications are extremely important as that is the time when grasses begin the process of storing vital nutrients to sustain them throughout the winter. The more nutrients they are able to store, the less die off that occurs during the winter and grasses are able to wake and be much healthier in the spring. November applications are key in keeping the lawn green and healthy until it’s covered in snow and is instrumental in fighting off cold wet weather diseases. If your lawn is brown or orange in November chances are that you skipped this essential application or the company you had applied too lightly.

In Michigan, visible grub damage is likely to occur at least once every three years and in areas surrounded by trees, landscaping, swamps or forest, this may be a yearly problem because these areas have extremely high beetle populations. Lawns that are not treated preventatively will need broad spectrum insect controls once grubs are found and often require costly repairs. Our grub prevention is non-carcinogenic and has no effect on any insect except for grubs as they hatch. This means that beneficial insects, animals and other organisms are not harmed. Annual preventives mean you will never have to repair your lawn from these highly destructive pests. Finally, using broad spectrum controls cost 2-3 times more to apply when grubs are found after the fact. Therefore, preventing grubs is far more beneficial for the environment, your grass, and your pocketbook.

European crane flies are an invasive species of flying insect whose larvae destroy turf grasses if left untreated. The adults usually emerge in late September-October, mate, lay eggs, and then die within just a few days. Though these cause no damage themselves, their egg sites which can cover acres of turf grass take on the look of red/yellow rust spots. Once attached, the larvae begin feeding on the grass blade causing severe damage. Once they hatch a few weeks later, the larvae then begin feeding on the crown and root system. They go dormant over the winter and begin feeding again in spring and continue to cause more and more damage until they become adults in early fall. Damage from these can be worse than grubs because they eat the entire grass plant leaving nothing but bare earth. Extreme infestations have often been seen to destroy entire lawns within just a few weeks. Nearly all of Oakland and Macomb counties have now been infested by these extraordinarily destructive insects.

NO. Our prices are set at or below our competitors pricing already and are based solely on our product costs. Our service and products are far better and therefore more costly for us to provide them as well. In order to maintain fairness to our loyal customers we do not price match or offer special pricing to new customers. We offer the best value and service.

Our standard pre-pay discount is 10% off for all customers. An additional 10% discount is offered for clients with the Gold Program option, for clients who use 2 or more of our services, and for multiple acre clients. We also offer residual referral discounts, multi-property discounts, and veterans’ discounts.

No. Too many companies provide too many services and are therefore stretched too thin, not to mention becoming mediocre in all the services provided. We specialize in lawns care and exterior pest control only so that we can concentrate on, and be experts in, those fields. There are a few very good tree care companies, a few very good lawn care companies, but I have not found any company that does both really well.

No. Mowing is an extremely labor intensive job that concentrates on achieving the opposite effect to what we do. In other words, our focus is giving you the healthiest, greenest, and insect free yard possible through knowledge, expertise and by applying product to make this happen, while the average cutters job is to quite literally hack it all down once per week. If you need recommendations for these types of services we work with some of the best around and can give you referrals.

YES! We provide exterior mouse/small rodent control and prevention programs.  Our goal is to keep rodents out of unwanted areas so that damage to your home and property or infestations of your home and other structures is stopped and prevented from happening again.  We are extremely successful at eliminating mice, voles, chipmunks, and even small ground squirrels.

No. Companies that specialize in in-home services should be used for this type of work. We only offer services for structural pests that can be achieved outside the home such as carpenter ants, Asian beetle, kissing bugs, stink bugs, etc.

Yes, we offer bee/wasp controls for our customers on an as needed basis. This is a two application program that treats for bees, wasps, hornets, yellow jackets, and even cicada killers. We can treat up to 2 stories high.

Our fertilizers contain NO chemical substitutes, carcinogens, or harmful coatings like heavy sulfur or so called nitrogen inhibitors/enhancers. Our fertilizers are safe once applied to your lawn and your lawn can be fully used after the application. Most applications include a liquid weed control as well though (please see below for special restrictions). Your health, our health, and the environmental impact we have is extraordinarily important to us and is the biggest consideration when ordering and applying fertilizers and pesticides. Our fertilizers only contain Nitrogen and Potassium which are nutrients found in, and needed by, all living organisms.

Like our fertilizers, our weed and pest controls are non-carcinogenic and have been shown to cause no long term exposure effects when and where applied properly. Our weed and pest controls are non-trackable and highly soil bondable. This means that they cannot be tracked away from the treated areas once dry and break down naturally long before they can reach any water supply. You will never have to worry about them going into your home or getting on you, your children, or your pets just from playing in the lawn or coming in and out of the house.